Ask Stellenbosch food-lovers where they eat, and the answer is usually a succinct "out of town". But there's a growing groundswell of praise for the low-key restaurant opened by Anne Pearson of Pietermaritzburg's legendary and much-missed White Mischief.

Seduced by the mountains and winelands, Anne moved to the Cape on impulse. On cue, part of the former Wineways premises fell vacant.

Despite a row of banners, there is nothing inviting about the tightly closed and seemingly deserted building fronting the quiet country road. But park and persevere. Round the back, skirt a fountain glinting with giant koi, and take a fix on a reassuringly well-stocked bar counter. You'll find the welcome warm and the food worth the detour.

The ambience is unpretentious, with the table total geared to hands-on catering, and couches comfortably grouped round the fireplace.

Perch at the bar to peruse the menu, for decisions are difficult. Typical starters are a decorative swirl of soups - creamed bush-ripened tomato, yellow pepper and fresh sorrel - served hot or cold (R22); succulent pastry-wrapped snails, bursting with chopped ham and mushrooms, drizzled with truffle and Muscadel sauce (R32); and butter-sautéed potato pancakes, topped with lemon cream, slivers of Franschhoek smoked salmon trout and sturgeon eggs (R38).
Savour the main course sauces: fresh Norwegian salmon is lightly poached in a paper parcel, with aromatic herbed butter sauce, bacon and white wine (R68); meltingly tender braised tongue is draped in a more-ish mix of Madagascan green pepper corns, sweet red peppers, mushrooms and tomato (R54); and rare-roasted duck breast gains piquancy with a three-citrus marmalade and grapefruit variation (R68). Pine-nut stuffing fills a free-range baby chicken roasted with fresh herbs and honey-balsamic sauce at R48 (allow time for preparation) and dry-aged rump steaks come in various weights with mop-your-plate options.

Desserts are irresistible. While three-fruit sorbet with kiwi coulis is a perfect refresher in the summer heat (R24), a deep, dark chocolate slice with Cointreau cream and mint oozes temptation (R28). Or tease your tastebuds with a Parmesan cheese mousse and fig purée (R24).

Our only quibble was with the coffee: not the quality, but the description. Freshly ground, and made in the traditional Italian style, it was listed as "espresso", which to our modern minds implied pressure and foam. But the accompanying chocolate truffles were addictive.

The winelist is a model of fair pricing and careful selection - including varieties like Zinfandel, Viognier and Pinot Grigio. As an indication of price, 2000 Villiera Chenin Blanc is R29; local 2001 Sauvignon Blancs range from Du Toitskloof (R22) to Neil Ellis (R59); and Chardonnays rise from 1999 Fort Simon at R50 to R118 for 2000 Hamilton Russell. Reds include 1999 Hartenberg Cabernet-Shiraz (R36) and 1998 Jacobsdal Pinotage (R52), with 1986 Alto topping the list at R240.

By Jos Baker
Province : Western Cape City/Town : Stellenbosch Address : vlottenburg rd (near vlottenburg winery), stellenbosch. lunch and dinner tues-sat. tel: 021 881 3793. byo permitted - check corkage with management. parking on the premises.  Food : **** Winelist : **** Ambience: Service: Value: ****