Ask Stellenbosch food-lovers where they eat, and the answer is usually a succinct "out of town". But there's a growing groundswell of praise for the low-key restaurant opened by Anne Pearson of Pietermaritzburg's legendary and much-missed White Mischief.

Seduced by the mountains and winelands, Anne moved to the Cape on impulse. On cue, part of the former Wineways premises fell vacant.

Despite a row of banners, there is nothing inviting about the tightly closed and seemingly deserted building fronting the quiet country road. But park and persevere. Round the back, skirt a fountain glinting with giant koi, and take a fix on a reassuringly well-stocked bar counter. You'll find the welcome warm and the food worth the detour.

The ambience is unpretentious, with the table total geared to hands-on catering, and couches comfortably grouped round the fireplace.

By Jos Baker
Province : Western Cape City/Town : Stellenbosch Address : vlottenburg rd (near vlottenburg winery), stellenbosch. lunch and dinner tues-sat. tel: 021 881 3793. byo permitted - check corkage with management. parking on the premises.  Food : **** Winelist : **** Ambience: Service: Value: ****